Design Principles in the Creation of Rock Climbing Routes

I consider myself a rock climber, but I have not always completely understood the sport. As a child climbing with my father, I thought climbing was simply a method of getting to the top of a cliff, and I often got frustrated with more difficult climbs as I knew I would be able to get to the top faster and easier only a few meters away on another part of the rock. By that same logic, a climb would be much easier if one simply set up a ladder. Yet rock climbing continues to be a worldwide and lifetime sport for millions of people, myself included, even causing people to travel across the world for the chance to attempt notable climbs.

Figure 1: Rock formations in Maple Canyon in Utah. Photo by author.

Climbing more now as an adult, I have started to understand climbing in a different light. Rather than simply finding a way to reach the top of a cliff or an indoor wall, rock climbing is about finding and defeating a challenge. Avid rock climbers will spend days, weeks, or longer working on specific routes, trying new moves and techniques, attempting the climb over and over until they complete it without falling.

I have come to realize that climbing is actually about problem solving. And that is where I see an overlap with engineering design. Design principles can especially be found in the creation of climbing routes.

Figure 2: A chart showing the different grades given to rock climbing routes, from easiest to hardest. The grades at the top of the chart correspond to climbs completable by most people, while the grades at the bottom refer to routes only ever completed by the world’s best climbers. [2]

Indoor Route Creation

Especially for indoor climbing, where every hold is hand-placed, care must be taken when designing a route. The routesetter, the person who designs a climbing route, must consider what grade the route will be so the gym has a variety of difficulties and so it will be consistent with other climbs around the world. Climbers will arrive seeking a challenge, and they should be able to find it. Adam Ondra, generally considered one of the world’s greatest climbers, said about climbing grades, “... we have to be honest and as precise as possible to make it make sense.” [2] It would be unhelpful for a route to be given a grade inconsistent with other climbs, or for a route to be created without a grade, as especially with routesetting for indoor climbing, the goal is the creation of a challenge.

Many attributes of a climb contribute to its difficulty. Some moves require more finger strength, some higher balance, and some require explosive jumps. Many good climbs will force climbers to think about and find creative ways to position their body weight, grip a hold, or move their feet.

Figure 3: Adam Ondra lead climbing indoors. [3]

Ideally, a climber should be able to find a route that has a grade consistent with what they have previously experienced that will provide an enjoyable challenge. A well-designed climbing route will likely take multiple tries to complete and demands creativity from the climber to find the best method of completing each move along the entire route. It will also include a variety of moves, to make the climb more interesting and require more problem solving from the climber. In the end, climbers will notice the difference between a well or poorly designed route through any of these aspects. [4]

Outdoor Route Creation

When setting a climbing route outdoors, the activity is less about creating a challenge, and more about letting a challenge created by nature become safely accessible. A routesetter then, rather than placing holds, places bolts for a climber to attach themselves to with carabiners and a rope, and chains or hooks at the top, all to catch a climber if they fall, and allow them to safely lower to the ground after completing the climb. When choosing a location, a routesetter will still consider everything about difficulty, interesting moves, and finding an enjoyable climb. When placing the bolts however, other things need to be considered.

First, the climb must be set up in an area where climbing and bolting to a rock is legal. This differs depending on the place, as some locations, such as wilderness areas, do not allow power tools, and some places do not allow the placement of bolts along the length of the route, meaning climbers must carry up different gear. Some locations are completely illegal to climb, and some have more complicated situations. Devils Tower in Wyoming, for example, is a rock formation considered sacred by native Americans, and climbing there is prohibited through the month of June.

Figure 4: A route up Devils Tower in Wyoming called el Matador. This route features a long chimney shown in the photo, making it unique from most other climbs and a popular destination for many climbers. [5]

Additionally, routesetters must be careful when placing bolts, making sure the rock is strong and will not crumble after a bolt is inserted, as well as making sure the bolt is in a good location. Bolts too close to a ledge will not be beneficial, as a climber caught by this bolt will likely still hit that ledge when falling, and bolts spaced too far apart are clearly also a problem as falls become more serious. Someone creating a route must also place bolts so they do not block footholds or handholds. I, for one, have been climbing and found the best place to place my foot blocked by a bolt. Grabbing or stepping on bolts is generally frowned upon, as the bolts are not a true part of the natural challenge presented by the rock.

One less obvious thing to consider is that the bolts should be placed on a portion of rock where the gear placed by the climber will function right. For example, a carabiner, though generally strong up to around 9 kilonewtons of force, can snap if forced to bend against the rock. Poorly placed bolts and chains may also cause the rope to rub against the rock, potentially fraying.

Routesetters must therefore consider not only creating an interesting challenge, but how their designed route will affect its environment, how climbers will experience it, and how existing climbing technology will integrate with the design [6].

Design Principles for All Situations

Most, if not all, climbing routesetters are climbers themselves, so they might not think about routesetting as an engineer might, but design principles are certainly followed in the creation of a good route. From routesetting of indoor climbing, a designer can learn the importance of creating within existing systems and designing with variety. From outdoor climbing, one can learn to watch how a design will affect the environment and how the design will integrate with existing technology. For any designer, following these principles will ensure a lasting creation loved by its users.

References

[1] E. Neyer, “Climbing Grades: Systems, Charts, and Conversion (2026 Guide),” *Climbing House*, https://climbinghouse.com/grades-charts-conversion/.

[2] “Rock Climbing Grading Systems: The Complete Guide.” Cliff Culture, cliffculture.com/fundamentals/climbing-grades/.

[3] “Adam Ondra on Rock Climbing, Lead and Goals.” European Championships, www.europeanchampionships.com/news/q4yw10v0hvtm6ah28vn2vepngvhiz7.

[4] “Routesetting: The Art and Science of Indoor Climbing.” Vertical Endeavors, www.verticalendeavors.com/routesetting-the-art-and-science-of-indoor-climbing/.

[5] “Photo Gallery Item.” U.S. National Park Service, www.nps.gov/media/photo/gallery-item.htm?pg=839370&id=f68d6d0e-98db-43a2-b202-d2bcfb0fc344&gid=56CD1489-B6A0-428B-8B1B-DBE279B931A1.

[6] “What It Takes to Develop a New Climbing Route.” REI Co-op Journal, www.rei.com/blog/climb/what-it-takes-to-develop-a-new-climbing-route.

To cite this article:
Stubbs, Ian. “Design Principles in the Creation of Rock Climbing Routes.” The BYU Design Review, 7 January 2026, https://www.designreview.byu.edu/collections/design-principles-in-the-creation-of-rock-climbing-routes.